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Retrace your steps to the Kabatepe Information Centre & Museum and follow the signs just under 3km up the hill for Lone Pine (Kanlısırt), perhaps the most poignant and moving of all the Anzac cemeteries. It’s another 3km uphill to the New Zealand Memorial at Chunuk Bair.

This area saw the most bitter fighting of the campaign. Ironically, a disastrous forest fire of 1994 stripped away the pines, which had been planted after the war, returning the area to what it must have looked like in 1915. Today reforestation is once again underway.

The first monument, Mehmetçiğe Saygı Anıtı, on the right-hand side of the road about 1km from the junction, is dedicated to ‘Mehmetçik’ (Little Mehmet), the Turkish ‘Johnnie’ or ‘GI Joe’. Another 1200m brings you to the Karayörük Deresi Cemetery and the Kanlısırt Yazıtı, which describes the battle of Lone Pine from the Turkish viewpoint.

At Lone Pine itself, 400m uphill, Australian forces captured the Turkish positions on the evening of 6 August. In the few days of the August assault, 4000 men died here. The trees that shaded the cemetery were swept away by the fire in 1994, leaving only one: a lone pine planted years ago from the seed of the original tree that stood here during the battle. The tombstones carry touching epitaphs: ‘Only son’, ‘He died for his country’, ‘If I could hold your hand once more just to say well done’, and include the grave of the youngest soldier to die here, a boy of just 14.

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