Backgammon (Tavla): A Beloved Tradition in Türkiye’s Daily Life

Backgammon, or Tavla as it’s known in Türkiye, is far more than just a game—it’s an essential thread in the country’s cultural fabric. With a history that stretches back thousands of years and roots in Mesopotamia, Tavla has become a social ritual woven into the everyday life of Turkish people. Whether in teahouses, at the seaside, or in bustling city squares, the rhythmic clatter of dice and the strategic tapping of wooden pieces on the board create a familiar and nostalgic soundscape across the nation.

Tavla is not just about winning or losing—it’s about conversation, connection, and tradition. It embodies the Turkish love for leisure and socializing, often accompanied by strong tea served in tulip-shaped glasses or a game-time coffee. For locals, Tavla is more than a pastime; it’s a symbol of community and the simple joys of life.

History and Origins of Tavla

The origins of Tavla are ancient. Historians trace backgammon to the Mesopotamian game of “Senet” and the Persian game “Nard.” The board game made its way through Persia, India, and the Eastern Mediterranean before settling firmly in Anatolia. The word Tavla itself is derived from the Latin word tabula, meaning “board” or “table.”

During the Ottoman Empire, Tavla gained immense popularity among the elite and common folk alike. It was considered a gentleman’s game, played in courts, homes, and coffeehouses. Over centuries, Tavla evolved into a deeply rooted tradition in Turkish homes and public life.

Tavla in Turkish Culture

In Türkiye, Tavla is an everyday presence. It’s played by all generations—from elderly men in seaside towns to university students in modern cafes. Tavla boards are standard fixtures in teahouses (çay bahçeleri), where players will spend hours in friendly (and sometimes fiercely competitive) matches. Tourists are often delighted to see how seriously the game is taken, yet how it maintains a sense of playfulness and camaraderie.

A unique aspect of Turkish Tavla is the pace and confidence with which it is played. Unlike in the West, where players tend to ponder their moves carefully, Turkish players usually act fast, often slapping the pieces down with flair and laughing heartily. The first roll of the dice is sacred: if a player wins with a double-six, it’s a good omen for the day.

In fact, for many, knowing how to play Tavla is a rite of passage. It’s taught by grandparents to their grandchildren and often played between fathers and sons or close friends. In some regions, young couples even enjoy Tavla as part of dating rituals, turning the game into a shared pastime.

Where to Play Tavla in Türkiye

Tavla is not confined to private homes—it’s a public joy. Here are some of the best places to witness or experience a Tavla game in Türkiye:

• Istanbul Teahouses: In neighborhoods like Üsküdar, Kadıköy, and Beyoğlu, you’ll find locals playing Tavla for hours. Pull up a chair, order a Turkish tea, and watch the action.

• Aegean and Mediterranean Coasts: In towns like Bodrum, Alaçatı, and Antalya, seaside cafes often provide Tavla boards. Playing while watching the sunset over the sea is an unforgettable experience.

• Anatolian Towns: Places like Safranbolu, Konya, and Gaziantep feature charming old coffeehouses where Tavla is still a cherished daily routine.

Many boutique hotels and guesthouses even offer Tavla sets for guests to play, especially in culturally rich destinations like Cappadocia and Ephesus.

Tavla as a Souvenir and Cultural Symbol

For those seeking authentic souvenirs, handcrafted Tavla boards make for excellent gifts. From mother-of-pearl inlaid sets made in Gaziantep to hand-carved wooden versions from Cappadocia, each board is a piece of functional art. These boards often come with matching pieces and velvet-lined cases, turning the game into a keepsake of one’s journey through Türkiye.

How to Learn Tavla

The rules of Tavla are relatively simple, but mastering it takes time. Many locals are more than willing to teach you, and a casual question in a café might lead to a spontaneous game. Alternatively, online guides and mobile apps provide practice for beginners.

One thing is certain: once you learn the game, you’ll never look at a board the same way again. You’ll hear the dice roll and think of warm Turkish hospitality, aromatic tea, and meaningful moments shared over a game of Tavla.

Best Time to Enjoy Tavla in Türkiye

Tavla is a year-round activity in Türkiye. However, if you’re visiting in spring or summer, you’ll have the chance to enjoy games in open-air tea gardens, along coastal promenades, or in scenic hilltop villages. Winter games move indoors to cozy cafés, where the sound of dice mixes with the buzz of daily life.