Mmmm… ice cream! If you’re heading to this neck of the woods from Cappadocia or the Mediterranean coast, a stop in Kahramanmaraş is mandatory for all ice- cream lovers. It produces an insanely good dövme dondurma (beaten ice cream), which is justly revered throughout Turkey. Its unique elasticity comes from salep, a flour made from wild orchid roots. It is made with so much jaw-sticking binder that it can withstand the city’s intense summer heat and be displayed hanging on a hook like meat. If you find that it’s not reason enough to stop here, there are a handful of cultural treasures that will keep you busy for at least a day, with not a tourist in sight. For a first taste (literally!) of southeastern Anatolia, Kahramanmaraş is ideal.