Accessed from the main Bodrum–Turgutreis road via a lovely side road through the hills, Gümüşlük has an escapist feel. It’s good for a swim and a drink or meal of fresh fish at simple yet stylish eateries on the beach. Its authenticity has, however, made it more than a little precious, with local accommodation and restaurant prices rising to match the village’s increasingly upscale visitors.
It’s said that famed Carian King Mausolus built Myndos (which largely awaits excavation) due to its strategic position and harbour – indeed, the sea just north of Rabbit Island is very deep. Look straight across these waters beyond Sergeant Island (Çavuş Adası) to see two specks of rock, Kardak Islands (Imia in Greek), the ownership of which almost sparked a war between Greece and Turkey in January 1996, following gratuitous flag-planting exchanges and a more serious but brief Turkish commando occupation. Today, the area is strictly off limits